Retinoids are one of the most well-studied and effective categories of ingredients for anti-aging in skincare and it’s recommended to start using them in your late 20’s to early 30’s. They are quite potent ingredients but the terminology used regarding retinoids can be confusing. This article will describe what retinoids are, how they work and some tips for using them.

 What are retinoids?

“Retinoid” is the umbrella term that refers to the family of these compounds. Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A and are broken down into 4 main categories (Figure 1). For our skin to receive their benefits, it must be in the active form of retinoic acid. The more conversion steps required, the longer it will take to see changes in your skin and the weaker the results may be. That being said, using some form of a retinoid is better than none at all.

Figure 1: The 4 categories that make up retinoids

 The closer the form is to retinoic acid the more potent. Retinyl esters are the least potent form and must undergo 3 conversion steps to get to the bioactive form. This category is a good option for people with sensitive skin or just starting their retinoid journey. Retinol is most popular and takes 2 steps to convert to retinoic acid. Because retinols are 1 step closer to the active form, they can be more irritating. Lastly, retinal (or retinaldehyde) only takes 1 step to convert to retinoic acid. The 3 groups of retinoids mentioned above are available in over-the-counter products. Prescription retinoids will often contain retinoic acid directly.

What do they do and how do they work?

Retinoids are known for their effectiveness as anti-aging ingredients and because they are one of the most studied ingredients there is a lot of data proving their benefits. They can treat acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. Retinoids are the best ingredient to help with fine lines and wrinkles as the have been proven to increase collagen production and prevent the breakdown of collagen proteins through their interaction with retinoic acid receptors. Retinoids are also great at fading dark spots which is one of the most common skin concerns with people. They again, interact with retinoic acid receptors in our skin cells in the epidermis and dermis which regulates the pigmentation production pathway helping not only fade dark spots but reduce additional discoloration from occurring. There is a common worry that retinoids will lighten the natural color of our skin, but this is not true. One of the main side effects of retinoids is shedding or flaking of the skin. While this is frustrating, the increase in cell turnover is what helps treat acne, fade hyperpigmentation and improve skin texture. Retinoids also work well alongside other ingredients like niacinamide and antioxidants meaning you can also benefit from other products in tandem!

What to expect when starting to use a retinoid

When you start using a retinoid it’s common to experience inflammation, a change in sebum production, dryness, a tight feeling, flaking of the skin or even an increase in breakouts. To help avoid these unwanted side effects make sure you’re using the right concentration. It’s been shown that 0.1-1% is best but it’s incredibly important to find what that works for you. When you first start using a retinoid, you may experience some of the previously mentioned side effects, this is sometimes referred to as retinoid purging. Retinoid purging is temporary and refers to the equilibration period but there is a fine line between it and irritation. The purging effects should simmer down after about 6-8 weeks but if you’re experiencing intense and/or prolonged symptoms, you’re most likely experiencing irritation.

Tips and tricks

• Retinoids are such powerful and effective ingredients but because of this they can be challenging to incorporate into your routine. Here are a few tips and tricks that can help minimize the annoying side effects.
• Only use a pea size amount for your entire face.
• Dot the pea size amount around your face and then rub in to ensure you’re getting an equal amount across the entire face.
• Avoid areas where the skin is most fragile (corners of mouth, where your nose connects to your face, around the eyes). You can put on a thin layer of Vaseline to protect those areas when applying.
• Apply at night after washing your face.
• Always use sunscreen the next morning.
• Use it 1-2 times a week for the first few weeks to see how your skin responds and slowly increase use frequency.
• Be consistent – like most skincare you must be regimented and consistent to really see the benefits.
• Be patient, it can take up to 20 weeks before you see results.
• Stability is a challenge with this type of ingredient so think about the packaging of your product and try to store it in a cool, dark area where the temperature doesn’t fluctuate.
• If prone to irritation, try the sandwich method where you apply the retinoid on top of another product like a moisturizer and then follow up with a second layer of moisturizer.
• If you experience shedding or flaking of the skin, this does not mean that your skin is thinning. If anything, retinoids thicken then skin. 
• There are some nice retinoid alternatives such as bakuchiol. Bakuchiol is an extract from the seeds of a plant grown in India. It has a surprising amount of data showing similar benefits to retinoids. It is important to remember that bakuchiol is not a retinoid and is not a vitamin A derivative. However, it has shown to improve wrinkles and pigmentation and may have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.