The skin care industry is fast paced and can be quite overwhelming. To help make this space less intimidating, look at a product's ingredients. With most over the counter beauty products, ingredients are listed in order from highest to lowest concentration. It's important to know your skin type and concerns when shopping for skin care. This information combined with a little bit of ingredient knowledge will make this process much easier.
Let's breakdown the different types of moisturizing ingredients. These 3 classes of ingredients are found in all products, not just moisturizers. And because of this, understanding the differences between them will be very useful.
Humectants are ingredients that bind to water. This helps the skin maintain proper moisture levels by slowing the evaporation of water. Light-weight humectants are beneficial for people with oily skin and are included in many products. Some popular humectants include:
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Glycerin
Glycerin is an industry gold standard and has been popular for decades. It's used in varying concentrations in skin care and hair care products. It works well with all skin types, other ingredients and there are no known side effects of glycerin use. -
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is naturally produced in our body and became very popular for its ability to hold up to 1000x its weight in water. Because of its larger size, this ingredient serves as a great humectant on the surface of the skin. -
Panthenol
Panthenol is a precursor to vitamin B5 and is a very popular humectant in beauty products (skin, hair, makeup). It has both humectant and emollient (see below) properties. It's known for its ability to reduce irritation and improve skin barrier function.
Occlusives are heavier substances that form a physical barrier on your skin. This barrier locks in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Occlusives alone cannot hydrate the skin, they can only prevent moisture loss. Products with these ingredients are great for people in dryer environments but might be a bit too heavy for daytime use. Some common occlusives include:
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Petrolatum
Petrolatum (aka Vaseline) is the industry gold standard for occlusives. It has been popular since it was developed in the 1800's. Petrolatum is found in many skincare products and is approved by the FDA as a skin protectant. Because of its sourcing, petrolatum is often accused of causing cancer and clogging pores. To be used in cosmetics, it must be of ultra-high quality and meet a series of specifications. Petrolatum does not and has not been shown to clog pores. It's important to remember that because of its superior occlusive properties, it will trap in moisture and other things which may cause issues. -
Shea butter
Shea butter contains high concentrations of fatty acids and antioxidants. It is a popular ingredient incorporated into face and body products and gives products a buttery, luxurious texture. This ingredient is suitable for all skin types and can even reduce irritation. -
Mineral oil
Mineral oil provides good occlusive properties without being as thick as other occlusives like petrolatum. With a similar origin story to petrolatum, mineral oil can often have a negative connotation. However, like petrolatum, mineral oil is required to be of very high quality to be used in cosmetics. It has been and will continue to be included in many beauty product formulas.
Emollients are lightweight, oil-based substances that soften and smooth the skin. These types of ingredients are beneficial for people with dry skin or when you feel like you need an extra moisturizing boost. Some examples of emollients are:
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Squalane
Squalane is naturally produced and is found in our sebum which means, topical squalane can reinforce our natural lipid barrier. It is a very popular emollient and offers benefits for both skin and hair. Besides hydration, it also has anti-inflammatory properties. This lightweight oil is not known to clog pores, and it can be beneficial for people with dry or oily skin. -
Jojoba oil
Jojoba oil is a versatile oil that mimics our skin's sebum. Because of this, it doesn't tend to have a heavy or greasy feeling. It has been used by Native Americans for centuries for its wound healing properties. In addition, it has antioxidant properties and is known to soothe the skin. -
Dimethicone
Dimethicone has many skin benefits and is incredibly common in make-up and skin care products. It is recognized by the FDA as a skin protectant and offers moisturization, skin smoothing, scar prevention and improves the feel of many products. Contrary to popular belief, it does not clog pores and is safe to use for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin.
These ingredients often overlap in properties meaning, for example, many humectants are also emollients. There are so many options for moisturizing ingredients, but it is nice to have options! Because of this vastness, you can find multiple ingredients to accommodate your skin in different seasons or as it changes over time. The variety allows our skin care routines to be adaptable!